TORREMOLINOS is certainly different: a vast, parody of a seaside resort, which in its own kitschy way is fascinating. This sometimes bizarre place, lined with sweeping beaches and infinite shopping arcades, crammed with (genuine) Irish pubs and (probably less genuine) real-estate agents, has a large permanent expatriate population of British, Germans and Scandinavians.

There are plenty of cheap hostales Pensión Beatriz , c/Peligro 4 (tel 952 385 110; ¬18-27), and Hostal Micaela , C/Bajondillo 4 (tel 952 383 310; ¬27-36), are both near the beach and fairly cheap. The resort's campsite (tel 952 382 602) lies 3km east of the centre on the main Málaga-Cádiz highway, 500m from the sea; get there by taking the cercanía train to the Los Alamos stop or bus "Línea B" from the central Plaza Costa del Sol. The turismo in Plaza Pablo Picasso (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm; tel 952 379 512) and a branch in Plaza del Lido on the seafront (daily 10am-2pm & 5-8pm) can provide more information on what accommodation is available. The sheer competition between Torremolinos's restaurants, clubs and bars is so intense that if you're prepared to walk round and check a few prices you can have a pretty good night out on remarkably little. The more elegant part of the resort lies to the east at La Carihuela , where there's a decent beach, great seafood restaurants along the seafront and, if you're staying, the pleasant Hostal Flor Blanco , Paseo de la Carihuela 41 (tel 952 382 071; ¬36-48).

To its enduring credit though, Torremolinos is rising above what was turning into a tired second rate tourist resort. Recent visitors will have noticed that a major clean up has taken place over the last few years with many of the older hotels having been reformed and refurbished , also many of the main avenidas have been reformed and lined with lots of baby palm trees. There is definitely a fresher atmosphere about the place and if your looking for some of the best fish and seafood anywhere on the Costa del Sol then the Carihuela district which lies on the beach area to the west of the town is the place for you.

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