Northeast of Lluc, the C710 twists through the mountains to travel the 20km to POLLENÇA , a tranquil and ancient little town which nestles among a trio of hillocks where the Serra de tramuntana fades into coastal flatland. Following standard Mallorcan practice, the town was established a few kilometres from the seashore to militate against sudden pirate attack, with its harbour, Port de Pollença, left an unprotected outpost. For once the stratagem worked. Unlike most of Mallorca's old towns, Pollença avoided destruction, but nevertheless little of the medieval town survives today, and the austere stone houses that cramp the twisting lanes of the centre mostly date from the eighteenth century. In the middle, Plaça Major , the main square, accommodates a cluster of laid-back cafés and the dour facade of the church of Nostra Senyora dels Àngels , a sheer cliffface of sun-bleached stone pierced by a rose window. Pollença's pride and joy is, however, its Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), a long, steep and beautiful stone stairway, graced by ancient cypress trees, which ascends El Calvari (Calvary hill) directly north of the principal square. At the top, a much-revered statue of Mare de Déu del Peu de la Creu (Mother of God at the Foot of the Cross) is lodged in a simple, courtyarded Oratori (chapel), whose whitewashed walls sport some of the worst religious paintings imaginable. However, the views out over coast and town are sumptuous. On Good Friday, a figure of Jesus is slowly carried by torchlight down from the Oratori to the church of Nostra Senyora dels Àngels, in the Davallament (Lowering), one of the most moving religious celebrations on the island. There are further magnificent views from the Ermita de Nostra Senyora del Puig , a rambling, mostly eighteenth-century monastery which occupies an extraordinarily serene and beautiful spot on top of the Puig de Maria, a 320-metre-high hump facing the south end of town. The monastic complex, with its fortified walls, courtyard, chapel, refectory and cells, has had a chequered history, alternately abandoned and restored by both monks and nuns. The Benedictines now own the place, but the monks are gone and today a custodian supplements the order's income by renting out cells to tourists. To get to the monastery, take the signposted turning left off the main Pollença-Inca road just south of town; head up this steep, 1500-metre-long lane until it fizzles out, to be replaced by a cobbled footpath which winds up to the monastery entrance. It's possible to drive to the top of the lane, but unless you've got nerves of steel, you're better off leaving your vehicle by the turning near the foot of the hill. Allow just over an hour each way if you're walking from the centre of town.

Regular buses from Palma, Lluc and Port de Pollença halt immediately to the south of Pollença's Plaça Major and across the street from the turisme (Tues-Sat 9am-1pm & 5-8pm, Sun 9am-1pm; tel 971 865 467). There is only one central place to stay , the excellent Hotel Juma , Plaça Major 9 (tel 971 535 002, fax 971 534 155, ; March-Oct; ¬60-90), a medium-sized hotel with comfortable, air-conditioned, modern bedrooms. There are, however, cheaper lodgings at the Ermita de Nostra Senyora del Puig (tel 971 184 132; under ¬12), where the original monks' cells have been renovated to provide simple accommodation. Be warned, though, that it can get cold and windy at night, and the refectory food is mediocre.

Pollença does well for cafés and restaurants . On Plaça Major, the Café Espanyol offers snacks and a good strong cup of coffee, the Juma serves up first-rate tapas and the Restaurante Il Giardino provides superb French-style cuisine. On c/Montisión, in between the main square and El Calvari, you'll also find the upbeat and fashionable Restaurante Cantonet , where the seafood is delicious.

Google Map of Pollenca
Hotels in Pollenca
Cheap Hotels Deals in Pollenca