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NERJA - MALAGA

There's certainly little to tempt anyone before NERJA . This was a village before it was a resort, so it has some character, and development (more villas, fewer tower blocks) has been shaped around it. The beaches are also reasonably attractive, with a series of coves within walking distance if you want to escape the main mass of crowds. There are plenty of other great walks around Nerja, too, well documented in a locally available guide, Twelve Walks Around Nerja, Frigiliana and Maro by Elma and Denis Thompson, available from Librería Idiomas, almost opposite the turismo. For a little more freedom of movement Club Nautico de Nerja, Avda. Castilla Pérez 2 (tel 952 524 654), west of the centre, rents out mopeds and bikes , as well as offering horse-riding and diving tuition. Nerja's chief tourist attraction, the Cuevas de Nerja (daily 10am-2pm & 4-8pm; ¬4.50, kids ¬2.40), 3km from the town, are a heavily commercialized series of caverns, impressive in size - and home to the world's longest known stalactite at 63m - though otherwise not tremendously interesting. They also contain a number of prehistoric paintings, but these are not presently on public view.

The main bus station (actually a stand) is on c/San Miguel at the north end of the town close to Plaza Cantarero; from here hourly buses leave for the cuevas . It's a five-minute walk south from the station to the beach and centre, or old town, where you'll find the helpful turismo at c/Puerta del Mar 2 (April-Sept daily 10am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm; tel 952 521 531), just to the east of the Balcón de Europa, an attractive palm-lined belvedere.

Nerja's main drawback, and a thorny problem through most of the summer, is scarce accommodation . There are a dozen or so hostales , most reserved well in advance, although some have arrangements with casas particulares who mop up the overflow; the turismo can provide a full accommodation list. Budget choices include the friendly Hostal Montesol , c/Pintada 130, just off Plaza Cantarero near the bus station (tel 952 520 014; ¬27-36), or, west of the turismo, the tidy Hostal Atenbeni , c/Diputación 12 (tel 952 521 341; ¬27-36), and the very pleasant Hostal Mena , c/El Barrio 15 (tel 952 520 541; ¬27-36), with a garden. Overlooking one of Nerja's most popular beaches, Playa de Burriana, are the Parador Nacional , c/Almuñécar 8 (tel 952 520 050, fax 952 521 997, nerja@parador.es ; ¬90-120), with a lift down the cliff, and the Hotel Paraiso del Mar , c/Carabeo 22 (tel 952 521 621, fax 952 522 309; ¬60-90). The campsite , Nerja Camping (tel 952 529 714; open all year), with pool, bar and restaurant, is 4km east of town along the N340.

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