ANTEQUERA - The Hidden Gem of Andalucia

Plaza de España
Photos of Antequera
A visit to this historical Andalucían town is a journey almost 5,000 years back in time, beginning with the Bronze Age and the native Iberians. The timeline is there to be followed in this fascinating city's profusion of burial mounds, dolmens, Roman baths, a Moorish Castle, Gothic churches, renaissance fountains and baroque bell towers.
Antequera lies in the province of Malaga and is situated in the very heart of Andalusia between Granada, Sevilla and the regional capital of Malaga on the Costa Del Sol. On passing you may be fooled in thinking it is a typical whitewashed medieval town concealing perhaps a few historic buildings leaving you with a feeling of shall we visit it or not, however Antequeras modest facade hides a real treasure trove of historic sights and proudly boasts over 55 places of great historic and cultural value to visit not including the geological wonderment of El Torcal set high above the adjoining mountain range which has eagerly protected the town for thousands of years.
Antequeras history goes back to prehistoric times and has been inhabited by many cultures including the Dolmens, native Iberians, Romans and the Moores, al of which, have thankfully left their mark for us to enjoy to this very day.

View over the old quarter
The town is spread out over the plains of La Vega where rich farmlands are irrigated by the Guadalhorce River which for centuries has been one of Andalucias most fertile areas currently harvesting cereals, asparagus, olives, fruit and sunflowers. It is overlooked by a huge crag of limestone over 800 meters high called La Peña de los Enmorados ( Lovers Leap ) . The name is derived from a local legend regarding the impossible love affair between a young Christian and a Moorish girl from nearby Archidona who after been sought and found by the girls father where driven to the top of the cliff where sadly rather than be separated from a life of love together chose to launch themselves into the abyss and to certain death, a statue in the Plaza de Castilla was recently erected to commemorate this historic act of despair. The Peña also fascinatingly resembles a head, said to be of an Indian warrior laying down which gave rise to its other well known other name of the Cabeza del Indio. The rock is visible from many kilometres in every direction and seems to watch over the fertile plains and town jealously guarding every movement within site of such a natural grandeur.
One of Antequeras oldest and most impressive places to visit are the Dolmens located to the west of the town, The monuments of Menga, Viera and El Romeral form one of the most outstanding megalithic sites in Europe,, the Megalithic architecture can be characterised by the use of large blocks of stone to create space, mainly chambers and passages which where used for ritual and funeral proposes. Although the Dolmens may not be visually spectacular their historic value is enormous having being built some 6.500 years ago during the Neolithic period and formed part of the first farming communities in Europe. The Cueva de la Menga was excavated in the 19th century and is said to be the most impressive with many hundreds of skeletons being found in the inner chamber. My personal favourite is the Tholos of El Romeral which has an impressive and beautiful main corridor of dry stone masonry covered with 11 slabs. The Dolmens like most of the other hidden historic treasures in Antequera where found by accident , in the case of the Dolmens they where discovered purely by chance by a local farmer.

El Torcal Mountain Range
Having endured Roman, Goth and Arabic ruling, Antequeras most flourishing age was after the Christian conquest of 1410. Its renaissance and baroque periods form its Golden Age.
Antequera was a town of important religious significance for many hundreds of years with many beautiful churches and other places or worship being built around the town, the pick of which is the magnificent Church of Santa Maria ( Real Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor ) , the churches of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, San Sebastian, San Juan and San Pedro, Los Remedios, Santiago, Madre de Dios, San Jose ( Descalzas) and the Belen Church.
There are many other fascinating monuments to be seen scattered all over the town and include the 13th Century Moorish Alcazaba ( castle ) which is currently undergoing major renovations which should be finished by 2008, the recently excavated Roman Baths, The Arch of the Giants built in 1585, the 18th Century Ducal Palace, the old bullring with its fascinating museum and the Palace of Najera where the municipal museum is now located.
A visit to the area would not be complete without a trip to the Torcal, a limestone mountain range which houses millions of forms moulded out of the erosion of an immense base of calcareous rock. It is a dreamlike and surreal landscape and surprises most first time visitors. With a little imagination you can see many different figures modelled in the stone.
It is a real pleasure to simply stroll around the avenidas and the narrow streets as you will come across a monument, old square, church or some other interesting attraction in every part of the town. July and August can be very hot, usually around 35 to 40 degrees and more so unless you are comfortable in extreme dry sunny heat make sure you plan your trip during the months where the climate is more forgiving like spring and autumn.
There is also more than a for share of great little tapas
bars, cafeterias and local restaurants serving good quality regional dishes. I have listed below some of my favourites below I have came across in my various trips to this fascinating and picturesque Andalusian village.
Although Antequera has grown considerably over recent years it has always hoped to
Retain its individualism and image of true Spanish life. The local authorities thankfully understand its importance and are investing huge amounts of time and money in renovating and maintaining many if the towns monuments and churches which is a real bonus not only for the town but for all future visitors to this culturally diverse corner of Andalusian.
Recommended Bars and Restaurants:
RESTAURANTE CHICON – Local dishes.
Located in Calle. Infante D. Fernando 1, Antequera
CAFÉ BAR CASTILLA – Fresh Churros in the mornings
Located in a small sidestreet opposite the Hotel Colon in Calle de La Infante.
MESON - House of Terry´ -Great local Tapas
Encarnación, 15, - 29200 Antequera
CORTIJO CARILLO : traditional restaurant set in the hills behind Antequera.
Cartaojal is just outside Antequera, off main road to Cordoba. Follow signs for Asador Cartojal once in Village.
ANTEQUERA GOLF HOTEL - Excellent breakfast buffet for 8 Euros.
Follow the signs. Located in the modern part to the west of the town .
EL RINCON DE CURRO For Fine dining – Regional dishes
Alameda de Andalucia 12, Antequera
LA ESPUELA – Fine local food
Located Ander the bullring - Paseo Maria Cristine 1.
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